Historical References and Glossary

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 height="100%"><tr> <td valign="top" width=12 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>            Missouri Boot & Shoe Company</B></FONT>    |     <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000BF" FACE="Webdings" ><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" Missouri Boot Shoe Company"><U><B>7</B></U></A></FONT><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" Missouri Boot Shoe Company"><U><B> </B></U></A><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" Missouri Boot Shoe Company"><U><B>HOME</B></U></A></FONT></div> <div> <A HREF="id3.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Products and Services On"><U>Products and Services                 Online Catalog with Photos</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id2.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="View our current line drawing catalog we"><U>View our current line drawing catalog we send out in the mail.   Printable!</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id6.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Order Form and our Refund and Exchange "><U>Order Form and our  Refund and Exchange Policy</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id4.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="How To Measure Your Feet How Footwear "><U>How To Measure Your Feet  & How Footwear Should Fit</U></A>   |   <B>Historical References and Glossary </B>   |   <A HREF="id26.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Knapsack Documents"><U>Knapsack Documents</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id32.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Customer Feedback"><U>Customer Feedback</U></A></div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="634" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 76 WIDTH="622"><div>    <IMG SRC="4d621240.gif" border=0 width="33" height="36" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Engravers MT" ><B>More!</B></FONT> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Historical Information & Photographs coming soon to this page!</B></FONT></div> <div> <B>Keep an eye on this part of our website we will be sharing things of interest with our customers.    We will feature original items in our collection and other private collections here. </B><B>You never know what we will find next!</B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 40 ><NOBR><div> <B>Comparison of Our Footwear to Original &  "Sutler Row " Footwear.</B></div> <bR> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 355 WIDTH="622"><div> <B>Our high quality reproduction footwear is built on copies of original lasts</B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Trebuchet MS" ><B>*</B></FONT><B> in our private collection. These  unused dated pattern lasts were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company by a major United States last manufacturer.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>The uppers of our footwear are patterned form original specimens, original patterns, government specifications and, occasionaly, period artwork and photographs.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>We have in our private collection a number of pieces of original footwear, and a complete set of original, proportional sliding boot makers patterns patented in 1863.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Missouri Boot and Shoe Company is dedicated to providing its customers with highly detailed, museum quality reproductions of original footwear.</B></div> <div> <B>*</B><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Lasts-The varied size forms that shoes and boots are shaped on.</B></FONT></div> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="635" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 242 ><NOBR><div> <B> </B></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="30932900.jpg" border=0 width="306" height="144" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> <B>Bottom: Original period  boot</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><bR> <div> <IMG SRC="1a036c60.png" border=0 width="310" height="198" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>    Profile: Original Jefferson Bootee </B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 16 WIDTH="310"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="16" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="310" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="306"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="16" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="306" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 240 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="3293da10.jpg" border=0 width="317" height="161" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> <B>Bottom: Missouri Boot & Shoe </B><B>Company   </B></div> <div> <B>                Reproduction  Jefferson Bootee</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="306"><div> <B>Profile: Missouri Boot & Shoe Company   </B></div> <div> <B>               Reproduction  Jefferson Bootee</B></div> <div> <B> <IMG SRC="34333b30.jpg" border=0 width="307" height="179" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 225 WIDTH="310"><bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><IMG SRC="19520770.jpg" border=0 width="288" height="119" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></FONT><B>Bottom</B><B>:</B><B>"Sutler Row"Reproduction of a</B></div> <div> <B>               Jefferson Bootee</B></div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="19c3ab50.png" border=0 width="314" height="181" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Profile:</B><B>"Sutler Row"</B><B>Reproduction of a</B></div> <div> <B>               Jefferson Bootee</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 30 ><NOBR><div> <B> </B><B>   </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Arial" ><B>You Compare The Footwear Above And Be The</B></FONT></div> <div> <B>                </B><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B> Photo Credits: Top Right Smithsonian Institution</B></FONT></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <B>Judge Of Our Commitment to Authenticity.</B></div> <div> <B>All Others Missouri Boot & Shoe Company</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 16 WIDTH="310"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="16" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="310" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="306"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="16" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="306" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="634" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 137 WIDTH="622"><div> <B>The Right Tools For The  Job</B></div> <div> <B>Over many years we have strived to constantly improve our products by collecting as many original examples, patterns, tools and specifications for our reproduction Civil War era products as possible. We are pleased to share with you in this section photos of some of our original boot and shoe patterns as well as  tools and footwear last. </B></div> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 115 WIDTH="622"><div> <B>The first set of patterns, made of brass and tin, bear the patent date of 1863.  With the assistance of these patterns we are able to produce  truly authentic reproduction Civil War  boots.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Also shown are two sets of ladies adjustable patterns and a fully adjustable  brogan quarter pattern.</B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 2212 ><NOBR><div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="659" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 499 ><NOBR><div>  </div> <div> <B>                  </B></div> <div> <B>                     Enlargement of Patent Date-- 1863</B><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Wingdings 3" ><B>;</B></FONT></div> <div>        </div> <div> <IMG SRC="395315f0.jpg" border=0 width="305" height="351" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>     Boot Vamp Sizing Pattern - Patent Date 1863 </B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="39c0add0.jpg" border=0 width="266" height="477" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Adjustable Boot Vamp Pattern - Patent Date 1863</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 395 ><NOBR><div>         </div> <div>          <IMG SRC="3a4e0580.jpg" border=0 width="224" height="344" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>         Adjustable Boot Quarter Pattern </B></div> <div> <B>                    Patent Date 1863 </B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div>      </div> <div> <B>  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>          </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="3a0348e0.jpg" border=0 width="308" height="142" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>                   </B></div> <div> <B>    Fully Adjustable </B><B>Brogan Quarter Pattern </B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 226 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3a5e9bc0.jpg" border=0 width="233" height="188" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>    Civil War Era </B><B>Adjustable </B><B>Ladies Shoe </B></div> <div> <B>    Vamp Pattern</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3a8e5b90.jpg" border=0 width="229" height="185" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Civil War Era Adjustable Ladies Shoe </B></div> <div> <B>Quarter Pattern</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 295 ><NOBR><div>         <IMG SRC="3a9e0bc0.jpg" border=0 width="224" height="188" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <B> Civil War Era Ladies Shoe Vamp Pattern</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div>         <IMG SRC="3aae0110.jpg" border=0 width="224" height="273" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Civil War Era Ladies Shoe Quarter Pattern</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="624" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 23 WIDTH="612"><div> <B>Dated Pattern Footwear Lasts</B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 177 WIDTH="612"><div> <B>Our high quality reproduction footwear is built on copies of original lasts which are shown below. . These  unused dated pattern lasts were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company by a major United States last manufacturer.   </B></div> <div> <B>Last not only allow for correct sizing of footwear but give the shoe or boot it's unique shape and style.  Since we build our footwer on exact copies of Civil War era last we can produce authentic styled footware.  Modified, modern day, lasts often used by "sutler row" can not provide the same results</B></div> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <div> <B> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="622" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 220 WIDTH="294"><div> <IMG SRC="3af24a50.jpg" border=0 width="292" height="165" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Close Up of the top of the last. The year 1862 can be seen stamped into the wood on the top of  last</B>.</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3b52ac40.jpg" border=0 width="298" height="196" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>                       Dated Pattern Footwear Lasts</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 270 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="3cafdcb0.jpg" border=0 width="253" height="203" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Our original G. H. Smith Pegging Jack</B></div> <div> <B>Patented Sept. 8-1863</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div>     <IMG SRC="3cfe1f80.jpg" border=0 width="225" height="248" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <B>Close up of Patent Date of Sept. 8-1863 on Jack</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></B></div> <bR> </NOBR></tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 23 WIDTH="622"><div> <B>Glossary Of Footwear Construction Terms</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="634" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 294 ><NOBR><div> <B><IMG SRC="33070990.jpg" border=0 width="368" height="153" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Pegged Sole </B></FONT><B>(S</B><B>hown here with HR-2 heel rims.)</B></div> <div> <IMG SRC="40277710.jpg" border=0 width="119" height="113" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><B>Cut-away of Pegged Sole</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="239"><div> <B>Pegged Soles</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Just as it implies, wooden pegs are driven through undersized holes, completely piercing outsole, upper and insole.  Then they are floated  (smoothed) off on the interior of the shoe or boot.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>We peg 4-5 per inch just as the original footwear was  done.  This is 4-5 pegs in a </B><B><U>single</U></B><B> row to an inch.  Don't be fooled by "sutler row"  double rows with two in one row and three in the second row trying to pass their footwear off as five per inch.</B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 305 ><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="40d67b20.jpg" border=0 width="359" height="178" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>McKay Sewn Sole </B></FONT><B>(S</B><B>hown here with HR-2 heel rims.)</B></div> <div> <IMG SRC="4038c640.jpg" border=0 width="140" height="100" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><B>Cut-away of McKay Sewn Sole</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="239"><div> <B>Mckay Sewn Soles</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>McKay sewn soles are made by  a "through seam' with thread passing through a deeply channeled outsole, the upper and insole.  Used often in lighter dress shoes for gents and ladies. </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>The McKay stitcher was designed by Lyman Blake about 1857. It saw extensive use during the Civil War. The McKay machine was leased to manufacturers who paid a per pair royalty.  Royalities in 1863 amounted to $38,746.00 at 1/2 cent per pair.</B></div> <div> <B>That comes to 7,749,200 pair.</B></div> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 180 ><NOBR><bR> <div> <IMG SRC="4047a7d0.jpg" border=0 width="122" height="125" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><B>Cut-away of Welt Sewn Sole</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="239"><div> <B>Welt Sewn Soles</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Welt  sewn soles utilize a heavy 9-10 iron (approx. 3/16 inch thick) insole, </B><B>skillfully channeled to enable the welt, upper and insole to be united with a handsewn seam.  This results in a remarkable flexible boot or shoe.  Probably the best type of construction ever devised.</B></div> <bR> </tD> </tR> <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 148 ><NOBR><bR> <div> <IMG SRC="40588660.jpg" border=0 width="136" height="102" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"><B>Cut-away of Double Soled Footwear</B></div> </NOBR></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="239"><div> <B>Double Soled Footwear</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Double soles is how the United States Government specified the machine sewn jefferson bootees and cavalry boots to be made.  The first layer is a McKay sewn sole with two rows of stitching.  The outer sole is then stitched to the first layer.</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id3.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Products and Services On"><U>Products and Services                 Online Catalog with Photos</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id2.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="View our current line drawing catalog we"><U>View our current line drawing catalog we send out in the mail.   Printable!</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id6.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Order Form and our Refund and Exchange "><U>Order Form and our  Refund and Exchange Policy</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id4.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="How To Measure Your Feet How Footwear "><U>How To Measure Your Feet  & How Footwear Should Fit</U></A>   |   <B>Historical References and Glossary </B>   |   <A HREF="id26.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Knapsack Documents"><U>Knapsack Documents</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id32.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Customer Feedback"><U>Customer Feedback</U></A>         <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000BF" FACE="Webdings" ><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" Missouri Boot Shoe Company"><U><B>7</B></U></A></FONT><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" Missouri Boot Shoe Company"><U><B> HOME</B></U></A></FONT></div> </td> </tr></table></body>