Missouri Boot & Shoe Home Page

American Military Brogans and Bootees

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Jefferson Bootees

By the time of the Civil War,  the military establishment had improved upon the bootee design by scalloping the rear of the quarter to improve wear.  Field use in the Mexican war saw soldiers cutting this modification into their shoes.  The government took the hint and redesigned the shoe.  Before the war,  the regular army received shoes from Schuykill Arsenal that were entirely hand-sewn.  At the outbreak of the Civil War it became necessary to contract for large numbers of shoes.  The shoe manufacturers received sample shoes but attached the soles by whatever method was being used in their facility. For this reason,  contract shoes were divided into four groups: Hand-sewn, Machine- sewn, Hand-pegged, and Machine-pegged.  The upper design remained the same with minor variations in sewing of the uppers.
 
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JB-1 Sewn Sole
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Our Jeffeson Bootee or Brogan

origjeffbootee.jpg
Original Jefferson Bootee or Brogan

Compare Our Reproduction To The Original

 

JB-1

Sewn Sole Jefferson Bootees also known as Jefferson Brogans

The first sole is machine sewn on a McKay Chain Stitch Sewing Machine and the outer sole is sewn to the first layer with waxed linen thread just as they did during the civil war. The uppers are made of top grade black waxed-flesh leather tanned to our specifications.  They have four eyelets in the quarters and two in the tongues. The heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails as were the originals.  They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers, like those of all our footwear, are carefully patterned from original specimens, period patterns and government specifications. The soles and uppers are stitched with the same number of stitches per inch as the originals.

 (Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

JB-1---------$195.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States       

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail         

         *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage  
        HOW TO PLACE YOUR Order Now    
 

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

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JB-2 Pegged Sole
jb-1.jpg
Our Jeffeson Bootee or Brogan

origjeffbootee.jpg
Original Jefferson Bootee or Brogan

Compare Our Reproduction To The Original

 
 

JB-2

Pegged Sole Jefferson Bootees also known as Jefferson Brogans

This is the wartime contract Jefferson Bootee with pegged soles. The soles are pegged 4-5 pegs per inch in a single row, same as specified for the originals.  The uppers are made of top grade black waxed-flesh leather tanned to our specifications.  They have four eyelets in the quarters and two in the tongues. The heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails as were the originals.  They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers, like those of all our footwear, are carefully patterned from original specimens, period patterns and government specifications.

 (Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

 

           JB-2---------$195.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States       

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail         

         *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage  
 

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

 

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JB-SPO With Hand Sewn Welt
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Our Deluxe Special Order Jefferson Bootee
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Hand Sewn Welts

Hand Sewn Welt s utilize a heavy 9-10 iron (approx. 3/16 inch thick) insole, skillfully channeled to enable the welt, upper and insole to be united with a hand sewn seam.  This results in a remarkable flexible boot or shoe. Probably the best type of construction ever devised. It's comfort and durability are unsurpassed.

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JB-SPO

 

Deluxe Model With Hand-Sewn Welt-Special Order Jefferson Bootee

Our deluxe model Jefferson Bootee for customer who desire the highest quality brogan. They are a reproduction of the government produced Jefferson bootee. They are made with completely hand-sewn welts and feature a hand pegged sole leather shank just like the period originals. This makes for an extremely flexible shoe.  The welt  sewn soles utilize a heavy 9-10 iron (approx. 3/16 inch thick) insole, skillfully channeled to enable the welt, upper and insole to be united with a hand sewn seam.  

The uppers are made of top grade black waxed-flesh leather tanned to our specifications.   The heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails as were the originals.  They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers, like those of all our footwear, are carefully patterned from original specimens, period patterns and government specifications.

By modern standards, they are expensive to produce due to the large amount of bench time and hand work required. But they are a great investment in authenticity, quality and comfort sure to please for years to come with proper care. 

 

 (Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

We Are Currently Not Taking Orders for SPO-JB

Please Check Back Later

SPO-JB----------$330.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail

*FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage                    

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

 

.

JB-3 Pegged Sole
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Style with known usage by western federal forces.

JB-3
 

This is a copy of a brogan known to have been used by western Federal forces early in the Civil War.  Volunteers often received their initial outfits from their state governments and the shoes were purchased locally.  They make a nice addition to your footwear collection.

The soles are pegged 4-5 pegs per inch in a single row and heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails same as the originals.  The uppers are made of top grade black leather and  are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers, like those of all our footwear, are carefully patterned from original specimens, period patterns and government specifications.

 (Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

 

     JB-3----------$195.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail

          *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage  
         HOW TO PLACE YOUR Order Now                   

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

 

.

JB-4 Pegged Sole
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Photograph coming soon

JB-4         

 

Originals of this style of brogans have been found bearing New York inspector's marks. Similar shoes have been excavated at Ft. McAllister, Georgia in the path of Hazen's Brigade.  It is quite possible that these were shoes the government had made for issue to contrabands.  

 

They feature three lace holes, external heel counters, pieced tongues, double soles attached with double rows of pegs. The heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails as were the originals.  They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers are completely machine chain stitched as were the original shoes. Like all our footwear they carefully patterned from the original specimens(Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

 

     JB-4----------$210.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail

           *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage      

         HOW TO PLACE YOUR Order Now               

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

 

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EN-1 High Top Bootee
en-2sketchlarge.jpg
Photograph Coming Soon

 
EN-2

 

A shoe of this design was first popularized by Thomas Jefferson for the military. It may have been first issued to riflemen and cadets in 1816. By 1821, it seems to have  been issued to enlisted men of all corps. (Along with low-quartered shoes.)   

 

This style could also easily be used for civilian shoes by asking us to cut the quarters two inches shorter.

 

They have sewn soles and the heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails. 

The uppers, made of top grade black leather, feature the binding reinforcement of the lace hole area as per the original examples. They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The soles and uppers are stitched with the same number of stitches per inch as the originals.

 (Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

            EN-2---------$225.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States       

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail         

          *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage                 

        HOW TO PLACE YOUR Order Now    

 

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

 

 

 

.

MW-1 Mexican War Bootee
mw-1sketchlarge.jpg
Photo Coming Soon

MW-1

 

By the mid-1840’s, the U S Army had adopted the high quartered Jefferson Shoe without binding. This was the style of footwear that was used in the Mexican War. Our sewn sole Mexican War High-quartered Shoe is a faithful copy of the originals.


The uppers are made of top grade black waxed-flesh leather tanned to our specifications.  They have four eyelets in the quarters.  The heels are hand nailed with iron square cut nails as were the originals.  They are built on copies of original lasts in our private collection that were reproduced, under contract, exclusively for Missouri Boot and Shoe Company. The uppers, like those of all our footwear, are carefully patterned from original specimens, period patterns and government specifications.

(Click Here to compare our reproduction to originals and learn more about our historically correct footwear. You will be returned to this page.)

MW-1---------$195.00 Postage Paid*

                      to lower 48 United States       

                Shipped via U S Priority Mail         

         *FREE U. S. Priority Mail Postage 
        HOW TO PLACE YOUR Order Now                   
 

Our Price Includes many features, some of which others charge extra for

 

  • Hand Applied Period Finish----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Soles Finished As Per Originals----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Wide Widths and Larger Sizes-------NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Each Pair Custom Made Specifically For The Buyer---NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • U. S. Priority Mail Postage----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Pair Of Quality Leather Laces ----NO EXTRA CHARGE
  • Customer Support Service Before and After Purchase­----NO EXTRA CHARGE

hobnailcs3eog.jpg

Hobnails, Heel Rims, Wool Sock Liners Available-See main menu

  Don’t Forget Your Boot & Shoe Care Kit to help insure long wear.

Why Spend Money On Shoe Care Products?

Dirty footwear may be cool to youthful re-enactors looking to have that "hardened campaign" look but the seasoned re-enactor knows the value of clean footwear.  When dirt and barnyard acids are allowed to stay in footwear it speeds up their demise. Never put grease or oil over dirt it seals it in to damage your footwear. When kept clean footwear last longer, feels and looks better and can have new soles and heels put on them. New soles and heels are a fraction of the cost of having to completly replace mistreated footwear.

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Click on wax at left to go to our STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON FOOTWEAR CARE. By following these instructions you can can get the longest wear and comfort out of your new footwear.

American Military Brogans and Bootees

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Confederate Accoutrements Sets And Individual Items

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Footwear Care How To Guide

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Learn More About Our Historical Accuracy

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Missouri Boot & Shoe CO * 951 Burr Crossing RD * Neosho, MO * USA * 64850*
*Phone 417-451-6100*
 
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